1760 Croix de Saint-Lô 18 Karat Gold Pendant With Black Spot Paste Jewels & French Assay Marks

An exceptional 18th-century Croix de Saint-Lô (Saint-Lô Cross), representing an iconic style of French regional folk jewelry originating from Normandy. A similar example is currently documented in the permanent archives of the Victoria & Albert (V&A) Museum in London, serving as a prominent historic reference for European devotional and folk jewelry. Please see thre link below for a comparative study here:
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O377417/cross-unknown/

Historical Context & Regional Significance

Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, these traditional crosses were highly coveted regional bridal or celebratory jewels in Normandy, particularly around the areas of Saint-Lô and Rouen. Surviving mid-18th-century jewelry of this specific regional provenance is exceedingly scarce, making this an extraordinary find for the serious collector of historical European pieces.

Distinct Architecture & Craftsmanship

The pendant features the signature articulated modular layout that defines the Croix de Saint-Lô, designed as a stylised two-part cross made from openwork 18-carat gold in an intricate floral design.

The main section features four high conical mounts set with large, circular white crystals (black spot pastes), with smaller crystals beautifully nestled between them. The lowest limb of the cross (the pendeloque) hangs loosely from a bar at the base of the main section. This articulated teardrop section features a matching central drop-shaped conical mount, showcasing a pear-shaped central crystal surrounded by a halo of smaller stones.

The black spot pastes themselves are hand-cut to simulate the deep, open culets of antique diamonds (such as the old mine cut) and feature a characteristic painted black dot at their base to mimic the optical illusion of a genuine antique diamond.

Mounted in traditional Georgian closed-back gold cups with reflective foil placed beneath each stone, these openwork crystals were explicitly designed to maximize brilliance and fire under candlelight. The piece is finished with a long loop for suspension on the back at the top.

• Weight: 5 grams
• Length: 6.3 cm in total length (drop included)
• Width: 5.5 cm across the horizontal arms
• Depth: 1 cm
• Hallmarks: Stamped with a French control marks on the triangular hinge plate.
• Era: Georgian, circa 1760